So yesterday saw the launch of Scottish National Trail, running from Kirk Yetholm in the Borders to Cape Wrath in the far north. At 470 miles this will be the longest trail in Scotland and the second longest in the UK (tipped by the South West Coast Path at 630 miles).
It’s great to see this first National Trail being launched, created by well known writer and broadcaster Cameron McNeish. It takes in parts of the existing trails – the Southern Upland Way, St Cuthbert’s Way, the West Highland Way, Rob Roy Way and the Cape Wrath Trail – as well as following the Forth and Clyde and Union Canals between Edinburgh and Glasgow.
For serious walkers it’s expected the Trail could take 4 – 6 weeks to complete, although I suspect that most people will be content to bite off smaller chunks.
I attended a talk by Cameron McNeish and Richard Else this week where they provided much more background to how the National Trail came about, its route and character. It’s clear that it will showcase the great variety of landscape that exists within a relatively small country, from the rolling borderlands through the former industrialised Central Belt and up through the Central Highlands to the much less populated far north.
It’s not a trail that is well signposted – at least, only those parts that follow existing paths and byways. For the most part, the recently-published book indicates the route using key settlements and other milestones but it’s for the walker to consult detailed maps to find the precise route. And for some sections, such as the Cape Wrath Trail (actually, not a signposted trail at all), there’s some discretion as to the exact paths and tracks you wish to follow. But no matter, for whichever path you take between Kirk Yetholm and Cape Wrath, you can still say you have walked Scotland’s National Trail.
For those of us in Scotland (possibly all of the UK?), look out for the two-part BBC Scotland programme being shown on 26th and 27th December 2012, where you can see Cameron McNeish walking and describing the new Trail in detail …
I did a bit of research to try to discover if there was a definitive listing of Scotland’s most popular munros. I found lots of discussion threads where people have suggested their favourite munros but the nearest I got to a definitive listing is Walk Highland’s list of most climbed munros, based on submitted trip reports (312,000 at the time of writing).
10. Ben Chonzie
9. Beinn Ime
7. Beinn Narnain
6. Ben Vorlich (Loch Earn)
4. Beinn Ghlas
3. Ben Lawers
2. Ben Nevis
1. Ben Lomond
What do we notice about this list ? Well, they’re all southerly munros with the exceptions of Ben Nevis and Cairngorm. Secondly, the list reflects the popular hills close to population centres. In other words, they’re the most climbed because they’re the most convenient and accessible to most people.
But wait ! Where are Liathach and Buachaille Etive Mor ? If this is a list of the most popular, what are the top 10 favourite munros ? This is where subjectivity comes into play, and where I need to draw on what others have said as well as my own favourites. So this is a list of what many munro-baggers would consider to be their favourite munros, dominated by the finest ridge-walking in the UK:
10. Meall Dearg (Aonach Eagach)
9. Beinn Ghlas (Ben Lawers)
8. Beinn Eighe
7. Ben Cruachan
6. A’ Mhaigdean
5. Ladhar Beinn
4. Beinn Alligin
3. Buachaille Etive Mor
2. An Teallach
This clearly isn’t a definitive list – it depends so much on a wide range of factors (weather, time of year, who walked with you etc) and I may feel differently tomorrow – but it’s a pretty good stab I think.
What do you think ? Any surprises ?
My first kayak trip was to Ladhar Bheinn, the most northerly munro on Knoydart, from Corran to the north. My previous attempt to climb Ladhar Bheinn had been thwarted by torrential rain and therefore I was faced with three options:
- take the ferry over to Inverie from Mallaig again, then climb it from Inverie, not the best ascent
- walk in from Kinlochhourn, a 3 hour slog; or
- kayak in from the north.
The third seemed by far the best way to do it, although a kayak / hillwalking trip would be new territory for me.
Iain and I drove to Corran (past Glenelg and Arnisdale to the end of the road, passing the foot of Beinn Sgritheall) and we parked at the new Community Hall, an excellent facility. It took us just 45 minutes to kayak the 3 – 4km to Barrisdale Bay, hugging the north shore of Loch Hourn. Along the way we stopped at one point to watch a young golden eagle just sitting on a rock ledge keeping watch. It was finally chased away by a territorial hawk !
We’d timed our journey to make sure that the tide was with us and being just after low tide meant that we had to haul the kayak up the beach a couple of hundred metres until we reached the grassy foreshore. We weren’t the only ones making this trip; it seemed that another couple of groups had kayaked from Kinlochhourn in the east.
Still hopeful that the clouds would part, we pitched our tent at the ‘campsite’ beside the bothy, had a bite to eat then set out to climb Ladhar Beinn. Even with low cloud I have to say that the route up Stob a Choire Odhar has absolutely stunning views – definitely top of my list of hills to return to in clear weather. Today, unfortunately, the cloud base was around 800 metres and we missed the extensive views of Loch Hourn and over to Skye. We descended via Mam Barrisdale and managed a late tea just before it got dark.
Next morning we packed up our gear and loaded it on to my inflatable kayak, just as the other kayakers were doing the same. It was all rather comical. Our gear was stuffed in and strapped on top, and we were wearing walking trousers and cagoules. Our, slightly more expert friends, had fancy sea kayaks with all the right clothing and other gear. One had even brought a little trolley to take his kayak to and from the water. (They’d just done it for the kayaking, however, and seemed to have stayed in a house in the Bay …).We reversed our route back to Corran, this time battling a slightly stronger wind. (Interestingly, in spite of our close studying of the wind direction and weather pattern, the wind was coming from exactly the opposite direction to that we’d anticipated). It was pretty tough paddling into the wind but easily more preferable to the long walk in via Kinlochhourn and the less interesting ascent from Inverie.
We finished our trip with a great seafood platter at the Glenelg Inn – what a great end to a fantastic trip !
Getting out and about across Scotland (and elsewhere of course) is a whole lot easier with a camper van. You have everything you need conveniently stowed – including the kitchen sink – and a roof to put over your head when the weather turns nasty. It’s camping in style and comfort, without the draughts, wet patches and leaky lilos.
We got Lydia from new just before Christmas 2010. She’s a VW California with a 180 horsepower bi-turbo diesel engine that can either ride along sedately or shift her 3 tonnes surprisingly quickly.
We’d talked for years – literally – about the idea of owing a camper van. We eyed other (van) campers enviously from our tent: “wouldn’t it be great to have a camper van, one day ?”. Well, “one day” always seemed too far off. It was never going to come. But over the years we started to get our heads around this major purchase. We dipped our toe in the water and hired a bright yellow early-70s Bay and took it up to Islay for a week. Being an absolute mechanical liability (more later) meant that we soon put romantic notions of original Bays out of our minds. We then viewed one of the many conversions and toyed with their various pros and cons. But when we actually saw a Cali in a showroom no conversion got anywhere near the build quality and design ingenuity of the VW.
A combination of factors finally made us come to our senses: some cash sitting in the savings account, a realisation that the kids would be grown up before we knew it and cancer taking my sister-in-law before her 50th birthday. “Life’s for living“, we said, and we never looked back.
So why’s called Lydia ? Well, all camper vans soon develop personalities. Being a modern twist on a retro model we wanted a modern-yet-traditional name. It’s a long story but the name “Lydia” was already top of our list of girl’s names and so Lydia she became.
So, a quick intro to Lydia for now … and much more later …
I’ve been mulling over why I wanted to start this blog.
I don’t profess to be ‘expert’ in anything (quite the opposite in fact; we’re all learning) so it’s not a way to share any particular expertise. I’m no extrovert and don’t feel the need to share my every waking thought with the world. And I’m certainly not a techno-geek (although I am quite enjoying the challenge of getting to grips with WordPress).
No, for me I think this about a personal challenge – or more particularly, a series of linked challenges. Being a keen hillwalker (I plan to ‘compleat’ all of Scotland’s munros in 2013) I’ve turned my mind to ‘what’s next’. Being goal-oriented I’m looking for the next challenge(s); things that will motivate and engage me, and keep me learning.
Ticking yet more hills off a list really doesn’t excite me (and I’m not sure my wife would exactly be thrilled …) so that closes off climbing the Munro Tops, Corbetts, Marilyns and the rest. However, there are lots of other hobbies I’m getting into. I recently bought a kayak, I’ve taken up running, completed a sprint triathlon last month and have enjoyed getting back into cycling. I’m also keen to develop my photography skills. And of course I love camping, both under canvas and in my pride and joy, a VW California.
In addition, I’m enthusiastic about living and working in Scotland. Perhaps it’s because it’s my adopted home but I’m keen to get ‘out there’ and explore Scotland – and particularly its remoter, out-of-the-way places. (After all, one of the reasons I took up climbing the munros was to find a good reason to discover my own country).
So to sum up, this blog is a way for me to share my enthusiasm for exploring Scotland and its wilder places. I’ll learn as I go. In addition to the challenge of starting a blog, I’ll find some new outdoor challenges to address and through its posts hopefully can inform – and be informed – about life’s big adventures. I’m looking forward to sharing this and getting any feedback.